Pristine National Park

South Luangwa is lovely because it is so unspoiled and natural. There are a handful of lodges inside the Park’s 9,000 square kilometres, but most tourist accommodation is located outside, in the Game Management Zone, across the Luangwa River. It is not geared up for mass tourism, so it remains quite exclusive. Earlier this week,… Continue reading Pristine National Park

Today, the bird I have most enjoyed watching is the Giant Eagle Owl

Verreaux’s Giant Eagle Owl This magnificent bird came in to land in a tree about thirty metres away. I could see that it looked large, and that it was a bird of prey, but it was only when I trained the binoculars on it that I saw its characteristic feature. Pink eyeshadow. I eased Phyllis… Continue reading Today, the bird I have most enjoyed watching is the Giant Eagle Owl

In trouble with the Law

The last time I had a bit of bother with the law was over 40 years ago, when I was arrested for cycling down a one-way street in Cambridge. I was a medical student and should have known better, the policeman told me. So I was rather taken aback when a stern police officer sought… Continue reading In trouble with the Law

Driving

Have you ever arrived at work and realised you can’t remember a thing about the journey? It’s as though you have been on “autopilot”, with the route etched in your cerebral cortex. For the first few weeks in Mfuwe, I spent most of the drive to work looking for (and attempting to avoid) potholes. There… Continue reading Driving

Today, the bird I have most enjoyed watching is the Red-Billed Hornbill

On an early morning game drive today, there were slim pickings. Nothing really attracted my attention. I took the road less well travelled, a spur of the 040, and bumped my way across some parched black-cotton soil to a dusty track. After a kilometre or so, I came across a red-billed hornbill. He was picking… Continue reading Today, the bird I have most enjoyed watching is the Red-Billed Hornbill

Today, the animal I have most enjoyed seeing is the Water Monitor Lizard

These are tough cookies. They look prehistoric. The staff at the lodge witnessed a fight between one of these lizards and a cobra, last year in the car park. The lizard won easily and dragged the dead cobra back to its lair. This series of photographs was taken at Luangwa Wafwa, an ox-bow lake. Remember… Continue reading Today, the animal I have most enjoyed seeing is the Water Monitor Lizard

The Metropolis

Mfuwe is a straggling town, a series of villages really, strung out along the road between South Luangwa National Park and the International Airport. The commercial centre is called Cropping. It takes its name from the elephant culling activities which went on there over 50 years ago. It has the only filling station in the… Continue reading The Metropolis

Today, the animal I have most enjoyed seeing is the Giraffe

Giraffa Camelopardalis. Five hundred years ago, we thought that giraffes were a hybrid animal: part camel, part leopard. This supposition probably came from observing their long neck and legs, coupled with the reticulated pattern of their skin. The name giraffe is derived from the Arabic word meaning, “walks swiftly”. And they do, with a kind… Continue reading Today, the animal I have most enjoyed seeing is the Giraffe

Christian Science

I could see that there was something wrong with the child’s eye as she peered over her mother’s shoulder. She was wrapped onto her mother’s back with a colourful piece of cloth. The story was pretty typical – hot body, headache, cough, abdominal pain. However, the rapid test for malaria was negative. I asked the… Continue reading Christian Science