Safdarjang’s Tomb

“The last flicker in the dying lamp of Mughal architecture in Delhi.” Anon. This beautiful red sandstone mausoleum stands in the centre of formal gardens (“charbagh”) surrounded by a fortified wall. It is situated just to the south of Lutyens’ New Delhi, a few kilometres to the west of the other great Mughal mausoleum, Humayun’s… Continue reading Safdarjang’s Tomb


This is going to disappoint Deb, I am afraid. Here in Delhi, Diwali is dull, crowded, smoggy and very loud. Although Chinese-manufactured firecrackers have been banned, there were intermittent, eardrum-rupturing explosions through the night. I am not sure that this ordinance/ordnance chases away evil spirits, but it certainly kept me awake until 1am. I went… Continue reading Diwali


In Gujerat and Rajasthan there are still a few craftsmen who use the ancient traditional Ajrakh technique to make patterned cotton cloth. It is an incredibly complicated and time-consuming business. There are fourteen steps in the process, but basically, it is a reverse block print, with areas of cloth being treated to avoid dye. The… Continue reading Ajrakh

Delhi Metro as a Flaneur

Daily Post I vividly remember the first time I stepped onto a Delhi Metro train at Rajiv Chowk underground station in the heart of New Delhi at Connaught Place ten years ago. It was a shock. The station wasn’t just clean, it was spick and span. There were no beggars. It was air conditioned. The train… Continue reading Delhi Metro as a Flaneur


Last week I went shopping in the walled city of Old Delhi to buy fancy boxes of dried fruit and nuts as Diwali gifts. Yesterday morning at 10:45am, there was an explosion a few streets away near the Lahori Gate in Khari Baoli. One person was killed and several injured. Clouds of black smoke blanketed… Continue reading Explosion


Two photos from me on the topic. This is the evening sunlight shining on the ramshackle shops of Khari Baoli (it means a salty step well) in Old Delhi.It was taken at about 5:30pm and the street is packed with people buying and transporting dried fruit and nuts – traditional gifts at Diwali, the Festival… Continue reading Shine

Cee’s Which Way Challenge

This is a view from the top of our clinic building looking down on the “gali” – a narrow lane in the unplanned settlement of Jahangir Puri. The area has become established, with street lighting and electricity. You can even spot a few satellite dishes. There is a metal barred gate to stop intruders from… Continue reading Cee’s Which Way Challenge