On Monday evening, the driver dropped me off at the street market after work so I could do the fruit and veg shopping for our apartment. Wary of being overcharged as a foreigner, I usually sidle up behind a well-dressed Indian lady who is haggling over the price of onions at a stall. I greet… Continue reading Becoming Indianised
The most famous dish in Old Delhi is Daulat ki Chaat – literally meaning snack food of the wealthy. You can only buy it in the winter in the narrow streets and lanes of Old Delhi. The precise recipe is a closely guarded secret but it involves mixing cream and milk for hours by moonlight. It… Continue reading Food in Old Delhi
I wasn’t there long enough to find the best places to eat. With the curfew, we had to be back at the guest house at dusk (5pm in January) for security reasons, so evening dining was out of the question. There was one fast food restaurant which looked like it had been sponsored by an… Continue reading Not a foodies guide to Manipur
Obviously, two in the front seats, two in the back seats. But how many sheep can you fit into a minivan in Lodhi Colony? One… Two… Three… Lots… What panache, what elan! Wearing white shoes while manhandling the carcass by a hand inside its thorax. No spots of blood on his footwear. Once he was inside… Continue reading How do you fit four elephants into a mini?
Majnu Ka Tilla is a remote corner of the capital, sandwiched between railway marshalling yards and the Yamuna River. Frantic traffic hurtles through on the Outer Ring Road. One Sunday morning, we wandered through Delhi University’s north campus and the Kamla Nehru Ridge park, trying not to breathe in too deeply because of the appalling… Continue reading Tibetan Market
Old Delhi becomes even more fascinating, dangerous and mysterious at night. It really is a magical part of the city. Here are a few photographs of people selling food on the street. Of course you can buy from proper shops, such as this curd cheese (paneer) place. Or you can eat in at this famous… Continue reading Night Market
A cold shower and a glass of tea. Proper masala chai, with ginger and spices, lots of sugar and boiled to a froth. With a biscuit, if you’re fortunate and the chaiwallah likes the look of you. Outside the Shri Shiv Navgrah Mandir.
Bharat Parv means “Festival of India”. It would not be a festival (mela) without food. Here are some photos of the stalls set out on the rain-sodden Raj Path lawns. All these photos were taken in August 2016.
At the weekend I attended a celebration of Indonesia, with music, food, dancing and a quiz. It was intended to improve relations between India and Indonesia, encourage tourism and to showcase Indonesian culture. I wandered through Nehru Gardens looking for the event, but couldn’t find it. I had just about given up and was on… Continue reading Indonesia in the Nehru Gardens
Ten days before Diwali, on the fourth day after the new moon immediately after Dussehra, married women fast to ensure the long life, health and prosperity of their husbands (those with boyfriends and fiancés are supposed to be excluded). The Hindi word “karwa” is a clay pot with a spout, the symbol of peace and wealth.… Continue reading Today was Karwa Chawth