Chawri Bazar

During the last days of the Mughals, in the early 19th century, Chawri Bazar was the Soho of Old Delhi. It was an area famous for courtesans and nautch girls – girls who danced so alluringly that their suggestive moves could reduce men to gibbering wrecks. Although the lanes were narrow, behind an unprepossessing facade… Continue reading Chawri Bazar


Wency is famous for his road-side sign just outside the village. “Wency’s Autoworks” in black and white, next to a track which leads into the bush. He was one of the first properly trained local diesel engine mechanics in the Valley. He set up his own business repairing vehicles of all sorts, for people who… Continue reading Wency

Every cloud has a silver lining

The adventure begins. Again. When flying to Zambia with South African Airways, passengers are allowed to bring two suitcases weighing no more than 23kg each. However, the luggage allowance for the internal flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe is just 15kg with 5kg hand luggage with Proflight. The clerk weighed both my cases (one was filled… Continue reading Every cloud has a silver lining